Unit Guidelines

Unit Guidelines

In order to be an active participant in Living History events, you'll require a certain amount of 'Kit' (This is the term used for your uniform and equipment). The 'Kit' required has been placed into three main sections: Basic Uniform, Accouterments, and Nice to Have Items.

Basic Uniform:
This is the basic uniform of the American Regular infantryman of the 1840s.  This is our groups' main impression; having a basic, complete uniform will allow a new member to participate with the company at 'Living History' events where we are in uniform and in contact with the general public. BUY THESE ITEMS FIRST. New Recruits have up to six months to procure their basic uniform.

Accouterments:
These are the items of equipment required to upgrade the individuals impression to allow one to drill with the company. It is the largest equipment section, and includes essential  items specific to Company "D" 2nd US Infantry. A couple of these items of equipment are essential, for without them, the individual cannot take part in any battle or campaign type events. Several of these items may be loaned to individuals just starting out in the hobby until they can be procured. New recruits should have their basic accouterments, with the possible exception of the musket, procured within a year of joining the company.

Nice to Have Items:
These items are not strictly essential for either of the above sections. They are however in line with the period scale of equipment issued to American regular of the 1840s, so can and do add that 'complete' feel and/or look to an impression. These items should be procured as time and money allows. 

Note!
An important point to stress here, is that the individual is not expected to purchase everything required all at once. It will take time to acquire the necessary items, for few have the means to buy everything at once. We as a group stress the issue of Historical Accuracy and will not accept a 'that will do' attitude, so items purchased must be as 'Authentic' as possible. Our group has listed the names of dealers whom we recommend under each of the items below, as we feel they meet the 'Historical Accuracy' and 'Authenticity' standards we have set for required uniform and equipment items (links to these vendors can be found in the 'Links' section). In order to save the individual from any unnecessary extra expense (due to an item purchased not being suitable), we do request that we are consulted before any purchase is made. Standing members of the group are always available to answer any questions that the individual may have. If no members are on hand to be contacted in person, the individual may use our 'Contact Us' section.

Basic Uniform

Reproduction M1839
Forage Cap

M1839 Forage Cap: Forage caps are made by a number of different vendors. C&D Jarnigan offer one, as does the Quartermaster Depot, NJ Sekela, and a number of other sutlers. One can occasionally find one on eBay in the Civil War reproductions section, but please refrain from buying dark blue "wheel caps" sold by various eBay vendors without first consulting a unit member. The standard infantry pattern with the neck flap is required for our impression.

Forage Cap Insignia: One 1" tall brass letter "D" is required for the front of the forage cap. These can be found on eBay, but the best found so far are made by S&S Sutler out of Gettysburg, PA. These have longer prongs that are easier to bend and install than most eBay offerings. Buy two.

M1833 Fatigue Jacket: Current unit members have fatigue jackets made by C&D Jarnigan and Milk Creek Mercantile. There are other vendors, such as Quartermaster Shop, NJ Sekela and Quartermaster Depot, but we have not seen these in person. The ones made by Milk Creek have the benefit of being made with the correct buttons already attached; the jackets made by Jarnigan have buttons that are far too big and must be replaced. The Milk Creek offering is also very affordable, especially if ordered unlined (per the regulations).

Leather Neckstock: Leather neckstocks are available from most 18th and early 19th century sutlers, such as Dell's Leather Works, Jarnigan, and Le Pierre Leather. The tied versions date back to 1808 and are quite inexpensive, and can be later upgraded with a buckle; buckled neckstocks are preferred.

M1832 or M1845 Pattern Trousers: The 1832 fall-front trousers are made by NJ Sekela, the Quartermaster Shop and the Quartermaster Depot. The fly-front 1845 trousers are a bit trickier. These can be had by converting a pair of Civil War Schuylkill Arsenal trousers by removing the side seam pockets. It may also be possible to custom order a pair from a Civil War sutler. Likewise, for someone who can sew, making a pair from a pattern without side seam pockets may be an option. Talk to a unit member for help.

Shirt: The plain white linen or checked cotton shirts with a half-placket front sold by most Civil War sutlers are acceptable; white with blue checks was an especially popular fabric pattern, and were called 'hickory shirts' for their reputation of being hard-wearing. For colder weather, flannel shirts may be worn; red flannel too was popular amongst men serving in Mexico. Try to avoid plastic buttons if possible, though these are easy to change for pewter, milk glass, bone or horn buttons. Some members of the company choose to make their own shirts; the shirt patterns from Past Patterns and fabric from reproductionfabrics.com are recommended. Ask a unit member for advice if you choose to make your own shirt.

Bootees and Socks: Black leather 'Jefferson bootees’ or Civil War brogans made in either straight or crooked lasts, preferably with pegged instead of sewn soles. Please choose a pair that fit and are comfortable to wear; nothing ruins an event quicker than a pair of aching feet. Most Civil War sutlers offer brogans, but avoid cheap pairs made overseas, as they will fall apart quickly; you're much better off buying a quality pair right off the bat. Passing on a piece of reenacting advice I was given on entering the hobby, consider making your bootees your first basic uniform purchase.

For socks, any 100% wool socks in a natural or muted color will work. Please avoid bright colors and stick to whites, tans, grays, browns and blues. These can be found at any number of online retailers. Also, please no rag wool.

An Axel Ulrich 1836
2-quart Canteen

M1836 Canteen: Currently, only the later 2-quart versions of the 1836 canteen are on the market. The best by far is made by Axel Ulrich and are sold through S&S Sutler in Gettysburg. Axel's canteens are made of tin, lined in beeswax, and are functional works of art. Dixie Gun Works sells a stainless steel version of this canteen, which is quite a bit rougher and requires a bit of work to make more authentic. This canteen has a benefit in that it will not rust.

Canteens should have a leather strap. The early Civil War pattern Federal leather canteen straps are ideal, and are sold by most Civil War sutlers. It should be in a natural leather color. Ask a unit member if you are unsure of a strap's suitability.

Having a water source on your person at all times is imperative while reenacting, which is why it is a part of the basic uniform kit.

Accouterments

M1816 Springfield Musket: Flintlock muskets were still in use by the Regulars fighting in Mexico during the Mexican American War, which is why our company uses them. This, by far, will be the single most expensive item of your kit. There are several options currently available. Military Heritage, a company in Canada, offers an 1816 Springfield that is very affordable, but does not come with the touch hole drilled (this is to avoid international importation restrictions). If you buy one of these, ask a unit member or a professional gunsmith for help in locating and drilling out the touch hole to make your musket functional. Also available are Pedersoli and other Italian made reproduction 1816 muskets that are sold through vendors such as Dixie Gun Works. These are beautifully made, but nowadays are quite expensive.

M1842 and later Civil War three-band percussion muskets are discouraged, but may be allowed at events on a case-by-case basis, especially for new recruits who already own them. Efforts should be made to acquire the proper flintlock musket as soon as possible, however.

Musket slings are made from russet leather and are the same size as for the M1842 musket. These are sold by a number of Civil War sutlers and leather makers.

Bayonet: An appropriate bayonet designed for the M1816 pattern or derivative Springfield Musket is required for all musket-bearing regulars. It can be either a reproduction or an original. Be sure that the bayonet you purchase will attach to the end of your musket.

Jarnigan 1840 Bayonet
scabbard

Bayonet Scabbard: C&D Jarnigan makes the only ready-made 1840 pattern bayonet scabbard. Sewn Confederate bayonet scabbards (without rivets) may be modified as well; Blockade Runner makes an affordably-priced, sewn "Confederate Bayonet Scabbard" which is a great candidate as it only requires the frog to be whitened. Contact a unit member for advice if you wish to pursue this option.

M1839 Waist Belt and Buckle: Belts worn by the Regular infantry were 1.5" wide and were fastened with a small "US" buckle that passed through a leather belt keeper. The small US buckles can be found on eBay (search "small US buckle), Parsley's Brass, and others. Jarnigan currently offers both the belts and the small buckles. Belts can also be purchased from Le Pierre (his Circa 1841 Pre Civil War Belt). Belts can also be made from US issue leather musket straps; not only is this a documented practice, but it is also a viable option for bigger guys. Ask a unit member for advice if you wish to go this route. Avoid white enameled leather belts.

Cartridge Box w/ Sling and Plates: There are three types of cartridge boxes currently accepted within the company. All boxes are worn with white leather, 2" wide cartridge box slings.

M1839 box, with
large brass "US" plate

The first is an M1839 cartridge box, which would have been the most common. As a rule no rivets are to be used on your cartridge box; they should only be sewn. This is the preferred cartridge box for the company. Several makers offer these boxes for sale, including L.D. Haning and S&S Sutler. Missouri Boot and Shoe makes a fantastic 1839 box; though expensive, it should last for years. Other black leather .69 caliber Civil War cartridge boxes without belt loops or rivets may be acceptable on a case-by-case basis; please ask a unit member to verify before purchasing. 

The second type of box is the M1828 box, which has an elaborately embossed leather front flap. The only company currently making this box is C&D Jarnigan; it is very expensive, but it is very nice. 

The final box type accepted is an 1808 box, essentially the same as the 1828 box but without the embossed front flap. Le Pierre leather makes one, as does Jarnigan and several other vendors. 

M1828 Eagle
Breast Plate

Both the 1839 box and the 1808 box should have cartridge box plates mounted to the front flaps. These are the same large "US" oval cartridge box plates that are used by Civil War reenactors, as there is very little practical difference and they are readily available through various sutlers and on eBay. A round M1828 eagle breast plate, also worn through the Civil War and available through Civil War sutlers, should be mounted on the cartridge box sling so it sits in the middle of the chest when the box is worn. 

Haversack: These haversacks are commonly sold by Civil War sutlers as "Mexican War" haversacks.

M1825 Knapsack: 1825 knapsacks are currently available from Le Pierre leather (their Mexican War pack), C&D Jarnigan, and American Civil War Knapsacks.

M1821 Blanket: As simple an item as a blanket would seem, finding one that is close to the issue 1821 blanket can be a difficult proposition. Amana Woolen Mills did a limited run of white blankets with blue end stripes; this run has ceased, though you may find one on the used market. Rob Stone offers blankets of various sizes with blue end strips; these are pricey if ordered new, but are very good blankets. Occasionally old Hudson Bay point blankets that fit the description pop up on the used market; make sure you go for the smaller sizes (~3 point). Unit members will help you find a suitable blanket.

Nice to Have

M1832 Greatcoat: The Quartermaster Shop markets an overcoat that they call a 1832, but it does not conform to the correct infantry pattern as it is double breasted. A light blue Federal Civil War greatcoat can be modified by cutting down the cape to close with three buttons, squaring off the end of the back belt, and changing out the buttons. Plain, flat gilt buttons may be substituted for the until a reliable source for the 1821 buttons can be established. It is recommended that a used overcoat be the fodder for this conversion, as new greatcoats can be expensive for such extensive modification. Ask a unit member for help in modifying your Civil War coat.

Drawers: Cotton or flannel drawers can be purchased from several Civil War sutlers, and patterns for making your own can be purchased online. These are not required items, but they do add a sense of authenticity as they do not print under clothes like some modern underwear, and they have the added benefit of warmth at colder events.

Misc. Accessories: You will want to have your own tin cup, plate and utensils for eating in camp. Like most of these miscellaneous items, period appropriate ones may be found at most Civil War sutlers. A cotton or silk cravat in a period correct print or solid color may be worn around camp while not in formation. Belt or pocket knives, toiletries, Bibles,  playing cards, dice, books, or other entertainment items, eyeglasses (no modern frames, please), trouser suspenders, pipe clay, or a housewife (sewing kit) are common items. Most can be found through Civil War sutlers, the used market, or on eBay; pay attention to patent dates and styles to find period appropriate items for the mid to late 1840s. Pipe clay can be found at Crazy Crow Trading Co. as a product sold as "buckskin cleaner." It is recommenced that all new recruits purchase a ball for whitening their buff leather belts. If in doubt as to the suitability of an item, please ask a unit member.

Wearing Your Kit

It isn't enough to merely possess the correct uniforms and equipment. How the uniform is worn is just as if not more important than what is worn. Participants should look clean and as well kept as possible with clothing fitted properly. Fatigue jackets should be fitted to the wearer, not loose or baggy. Trousers should be worn at the natural waist, not at the modern belt line, and should be fitted properly and be hemmed. Belts should be whitened, brass shined, and boots blackened. Finally, while in uniform the reenactor must hold himself in a military manner, head erect, shoulders squared; this above anything else indicates that the reenactor knows what he's about.

Additionally, attitude matters. No matter how carefully the reenactor wears his uniform, stands erect and soldierly, has his brass polished, his belts whitened and his boots blackened, a poor or disrespectful attitude will spoil all his effort and will signal to the audience that he is nothing but an amateur. As a unit that portrays regular, professional soldiers, we cannot abide an atmosphere of amateurism. Every reenactor is a missionary for, not only the original 2nd Infantry Regiment and the recreated unit, but for all of the American Forces of the Mexican-American War. In front of the public, he must be friendly, forthright, and polite. Every action he takes and word he speaks will be quietly judged by the audience. Looking or acting sloppily, chomping on gum, flicking cigarette ashes carelessly about, cursing loudly – all will be measured. 

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